HAMMER SAFETIES ON REVOLVERS

You know how it is - one thing leads to another. I was reading (and writing) about the Ruger Revolvers and how they introduced their system of a TRANSFER BAR to their products after they had built their first 'Old Model' single actions - which were built with the same hammer and sear (with half-cock, full-cock position) system as the COLT SAA 1873 Models ('Peacemaker'). This older system on the Colts, Colt Replicas (and Old Model 3 Screw Rugers) required that a savvy user loaded only five rounds into his six-gun and rested his hammer over an empty chamber.

                                                                 Transfer Bar.

From 1973 Ruger introduced their 'New Model' revolvers all fitted with their 'transfer bar' system designed to totally prevent contact between hammer and frame mounted firing-pin until the trigger was moved rearward. - Prior to that time - from the early 1950s to 1972,- Ruger S/A Revolvers needed to be loaded in a similar safe manner as the Peacemaker originals and their replicas.

                                            Ruger Vaquero showing Transfer Bar.

Smith & Wesson use a different system of a hammer-block that prevents their hammers/ firing-pins striking the primer until the hammer-block is raised out of the way by pulling the trigger rearward. - All S&W revolvers produced after 1945 have such hammer-blocks other than a few "hammerless models". The story goes that a US Navy sailor had a negligent discharge when he dropped a S&W revolver to the deck - causing an enquiry and report..

                                                                Hammer-Block.

It probably is not a particularly good idea to shoot any of those older original SAA guns regularly as they do need to be treated with extra care for both Safety reasons - and out of respect for their age and condition. - But if you are lucky enough to have an example of these old ladies - no doubt you will know how to respect them.

Both systems put an additional safety tool into shooters hands - but of course it all comes down to what you've got between your ears and safe gun handling at all times. - Both systems involve a 'bar' of steel that pivots off the upper rear surface of the trigger that is raised as the trigger is pressed rearwards - but they work 'opposite ways' to each other, because the raised transfer bar completes the linkage between the hammer and firing-pin - while the hammer-block removes a 'block' thereby allowing the hammer to fully fall.

These 'passive' inbuilt mechanisms are excellent - like the multiple internal safeties in Glocks - but I really dislike the external 'safety-switches' that most firearms other than revolvers have fitted.

The way I see it - manual safeties all seem to work differently - up for safe, down for safe, - forward for safe, back for safe, -in for safe, out for safe - and there have been so many tragic 'accidents' where the gun handler says "- It's all right - the safety's on - look - *BANG*". - Many "safeties" are located with other levers that can even lead to a user mistakenly operating a different switch while thinking that he's done the right thing.

                         Six Different controls visible in this photo of a Colt 1911.

I always teach new shooters that 'Safetys' should be renamed 'Dangerouses'  - and that the only "safe" gun is one that has its action open and has been checked as unloaded.

- Mind you, - when I have an occasional "Anti-gun" visitor who hates guns "because they are dangerous" - I have been known to place a checked, unloaded gun on the ground and just stand-back silently - watch and wait. - Inevitably they ask "What are you doing?" - then I say that I'm waiting for that 'dangerous gun' to get-up and shoot someone!

Marty K.