It's really a very simple process - but you do need to be careful - as any stupid mistake can be damaging to either your firearm or yourself.
The basic process can be done with simple hand operated tools - I recall that for the first year or so that I re-loaded - I used a spent case with a soldered-on wire handle to 'dip' a charge of powder and refill my 9mm cartridges. - It worked perfectly well - cut to a length to give the needed charge weight.
- Now I've got three presses bolted to a small bench - two of them are Lee 'Progressive' presses each set-up for different calibres - and a basic low-cost single stage press that I use for de-capping and experimental loads.
When a shot is fired - the bullet or projectile impacts the target and is lost or destroyed, the propellant powder is burnt to produce the gas that drove the bullet, and the primer that was ignited by the firing pin or striker is used-up and now dead.
To re-load all you do is replace the dead primer with a new one, re-charge the brass case with a measured weight of powder, and insert a new projectile into the case to the correct length and crimp it in place. - Job done. - Money in the bank! (Be careful about saying that - as your significant other may well say "OK - where is it?")
What you do need is a set of 'Loading Dies' for your calibre and a simple press. I use Lee dies and presses and have few complaints or reservations - but many folk swear by Dillon equipment. - "You makes your pick and pays your money." - Select a suitable powder for your cartridge and refer to the loading data for bullet weights and suggested charge weights.
Most Gun Shops will stock components, powder and equipment - and will be able to point you in the right direction with advice - but the best way to start is to watch a shooting mate doing his re-loading, or get him to come around and show you how to do it. - Me? - I just bought a book about it and followed the pictures! - Touch wood (my head!) - but so far - so good.
- but there is probably a YouTube video that you can watch. ("It rubs the lotion on its skin"! - Joke!)
You can see my two Lee 'Progressive' presses - The left press is set-up for 9MM and another short cartridge, the 45"ACP. The press in centre of picture is used for longer cases, either .38" or .357" Magnum (or 10MM) - while I use the single stage (right) for de-capping and small trial loads. I like to 'prime' my cases by hand - feeling-in the primers with my Lee 'Auto-Prime', rather than by setting-up the Progressives to do it all for one stroke of the handle.
- I guess there are some re-loaders who keep their bench clear and tidy - but the really important safety factor is to stay alert at all times, watch that the powder level in the hopper doesn't drop too far - and I feel that checking EVERY shell for powder level before seating the bullet is essential. - I adjust a light to shine down into the dim case interior and glance into it as I place the projectile into the mouth for seating. - Works for me anyway - so far!
I find that the Lee powder charger that delivers a charge metered by volume is plenty accurate for pistol calibres - but when loading rifle cases I would prefer to weigh each 'drop' - feeling that the internal pressures are perhaps more critical.
the disc hole size that throws the weight you want
Many new shooters think that a double powder charge is the danger - but a round loaded with NO powder (sometimes called a "squib-load") can be worse - as the primer alone can push the bullet into the bore and the next round fired slams into it causing massive over-pressure that can blow the barrel, or maybe only 'ring' or bulge it if you were lucky.
When shooting re-loads rapid-fire you should be alert for "bang, bang, pop, bang" - Oh NO.
There are other bits of gear you may feel essential - such as a case cleaner or tumbler to polish your brass - but I've reloaded now for nearly 25 years without one - however, my dirty, grubby brown stained cases may offend younger viewers.
Marty K
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