.. I was wandering around a big hardware store when I spotted a very attractive & inspirational M16 x 120 mm (austenitic - non-magnetic) stainless steel bolt .. and I really enjoyed it's impressive heft .. yup I'm like that 😏 .. these things are so handy .. not cheap but .. handy.
- you can learn something new every day eh ..
.. Personal Safety is exactly that .. YOUR business .. nobody else's - but of course government agencies such as OSH are set-up to save the government having to give back some of your money - aiming to reduce compensation claims and medical bills etc.
- Some political 'leaders' also like to seem to "do something" .. to Prohibit & Ban stuff from legal ownership .. apparently it is for our benefit as lawful citizens not to own anything important or useful eh.
Now - I've noticed that lots of folk are kinda slow learners and you will see guys (mostly) pick-up a metal cutting file in a workshop and use it without a handle ... until they feel the sticky-tacky blood between their pinkies.
My stainless steel SAFETY FILE HANDLE is engineered from these M16 bolts to give lifetimes of protection from the danger of injury.
(5.7mm) Safety File Handle:
This Safety File Handle is thru-bored - in 5.7 mm (7/32") and counter-bored to fit various file tangs. - Machined from substantial quality stainless steel - it enhances your personal health & safety with environmentally friendly long-lasting steel.
_________________
So that was my first 're-purposing' of an M16 bolt - as safety equipment - my second project started while admiring my first - the safety file handles ... What if I fitted a chase girdle & TRUNNIONS at the pivot point and used a strengthened dome-nut with a drilled TOUCH HOLE or vent?
- That would make a black-powder bolt/-cannon ready to mount onto a wooden carriage eh.
Parts Of A Cannon:
I fully appreciate that an M16 stainless steel bolt, re-purposed as a miniature cannon won't be in the same class as a 'Weatherby' nor even a Ruger .. but it could be interesting to develop as a working model eh ..
M16 BOLTAR 9MM Bore CANNON
- I think that doesn't look too bad for an M16 bolt .. the cannon measures 130 mm from muzzle to cascable. (just over 5 inches)
.. I'm actually trying to learn how to "turn" in my garage using an antique 31/2 inch Drummond lathe .. and getting my holes drilled/bored straight through without "run-out" is an issue so far.
- I've also 'discovered' work hardening of stainless steel that makes further machining almost impossible 😅.
- I've also 'discovered' work hardening of stainless steel that makes further machining almost impossible 😅.
You know something? - I always reckoned that metal-working engineers were underpaid for their skill level - in my day some of them could work to half of one thousandth of an inch.
Rod says: Work hardening of stainless is a pain but it can be reduced by slow spindle speeds, cutting oil and sharp tools (slower is quicker!). Similarly, drill run-off can be prevented by the use of professionally sharpened drills of progressive diameters (drills should only be about 3-4mm bigger at each pass), slow speeds and cutting oil. There are many grades of stainless steel and the best grade for machining is 303. Most stainless bolts are 316 which is tough and prone to work-hardening. Tungsten carbide tooling is best but it may be a problem on a small lathe as it use requires good rigidity in the machine. A chap by the surname Spary has written some very good books for amateur lathe operators. Have a look online ....Stay safe
Hi Rod, - Thanks for the tips .. I'll follow through but I have already gone to the lowest spindle speeds now on my cheap pillar drill ...Trying to use the tail-stock to drill on lathe is problem for me - as the small hand turned drill feed handle is too hard for me to rotate .. maybe i need to adapt with some sort of extra leverage?
The tail-stock problem is caused by trying to use blunt drills or too large cut (hence my earlier mention of 3-4mm steps). As an example, drilling a 12 mm hole in a tough stainless shaft, use the following sequence; centre drill, 3-4mm pilot drill, 6-7mm second drill, 9-10mm third drill, 11.5mm fourth drill, 12mm finish on slowest speed to get nice finish, all done with good cutting oil ... Cheers Rod
- Much appreciated Rod - have a well deserved "cold one".
Haha! So you also discovered SS work hardening! :>D "Fun" eh?
ReplyDeleteYou CAN use HSS bits with a drill press or lathe, trick is to use a SLOW SPEED and to keep a constant feed pressure so the drill bit bites in and takes stuff all the time. But run it over the surface without taking anything off and you glass harden it.
And remember the canola.
Or just use tungsten carbide tipped masonry drill bits and you'll be singing, "Nothing's gonna stop us now..."
Boring straight holes is a frustrating fine art passed from generation to generation. You'll definitely enjoy this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYFQB_CG64A
and this video is brilliant too in its simplicity:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HoJ_0EzaIv4
Have fun.
And cool cannon. B-cat?
Cheers Pete .. all good info. eh.
ReplyDelete- It's a great learning curve for this old bugger - lots of fun.
ah CANNON are specifically EXCLUDED from firearms law - No licence required but you need to be cautious when popping them off. - Use a long distance ignition plus shielding at first.
Cannon excluded from firearms law??? How enlightened, I have rediscovered my childhood. (-:
DeleteGuns part of a bomb disposal robot bizarrely also require no FAL.
Good luck with the lathe. It's really the universal tool.